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How to Fix your broken peg figure (Alter Asuka)

Tickwomp2 years agoTutorial
Hey guys,

Here's what I did to fix my Asuka (and generally all broken peg figures). Do this at your own risk and read through the whole thing before you decide you want to try it.

*NOTE: The bottom images are just an example of WHERE to drill and pin. You should actually be gluing the peg back to where it originally broke, NOT permanently pinning the head to the body!*

imageshack.com/...


The image here is the shorthand, but I'll write it out a bit here.


1. You'll want the tools listed above: a pin vise or dremel, drill bits (1/16" and/or 5/64"), some metal rods of the same diameter, super glue gel, and some cutting pliers. You can get this stuff at a hobby shop or a hardware store.

I recommend a pin vise since it's easier to control, but you could use a dremel..it's harder to control though. For metal rods, use aluminum or brass since they're easier to cut with the pliers. You could use steel too. I recommend 1/16" for the diameter of the metal rod, but as long as it's smaller than the peg you are repairing. For superglue, I like the gel-type since it doesn't go everywhere and mine is kind of thick, but regular superglue will work fine.



2. Use your pin vise and drill bit to drill a hole around the center of the peg (where it snapped on the figure). I just eyeball it. If you're worried about alignment, use a drill bit larger than the diameter of the rod. For example, drill a 1/8" hole, and use a 1/16" rod - this gives play in the rod. I usually drill in like a quarter to half an inch. Don't drill completely through the peg though. (See Fig B).

Drill a corresponding hole into the head roughly in the center (again, where the peg snapped in the first place).

3. Figure how much metal rod you'll need. You can insert the pin vise and kind of thumb mark how far it goes in. The length it goes into the peg + the head is roughly how much metal rod you'll need. Cut it slightly shorter than what you need using the pliers. The superglue will fill the extra space inside the holes. (Fig C)

4. You should be able to test-fit all the pieces. The head, peg, and rod should all fit without much resistance. A little play is okay since the glue will fix that, but remember - you want the peg to sit like it did originally when it was attached. If it's off angle, your figure's head won't sit correctly.

5. If you're satisfied with it, glue the rod into the peg. Add glue to the top as well where the peg snapped, and on the head where it will connect. I like to glue the peg, rod, and head together all at once so I'm sure it aligns, and dries in the right alignment.

REMEMBER: the peg should sit like it did were it not broken. The rod can have play, but the peg should fit tightly so that it dries properly.

6. Once it's dry you're all set. (Fig D)

I should note, this works on other pieces like arms and legs.
Also, here is a link to a better tutorial by Gamera Baenre
gamerabaenre.co...
It applies to garage kits, but works for PVC figure repair as well. I've done this for a few of my figures so far.
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Comments4 comments

0pt
Tickwomp (2 years ago) #2628547Yes, I did this and it works fine. Can swap heads without issue. I'm confident it's stronger than how it comes from the factory.

cool thanks!
2 years ago
1pt
Yes, I did this and it works fine. Can swap heads without issue. I'm confident it's stronger than how it comes from the factory.
2 years ago
0pt
Did you preform this fix on the the Jersey version? I just got mine in the mail today and the head was broken. So sad. If so, were you still able to swap the heads? Part of the peg is pretty stuck in the body. I don't want to try this and have the peg rip out when changing heads

-Thanks!
2 years ago
2pt
Very useful article!!!! Thank you!!!!!!
2 years ago
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