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Giving your nendoroid a tan [Experimental Stage]Comments • Giving your nendoroid a tan [Experimental Stage]

  • 1pt
    Milady-Alluca (1 year ago) #29194920Thanks so much for posting this, I read it awhile ago but I finally might be able to have time to experiment myself soon and I'm really excited since I have a couple custom ideas that really would look better even if just slightly tanner than standard GSC pale xD I've tried painting small skin parts on bodies with very limited success but just dunking a face in paint mix water sounds worth a shot for that smoothness! Luckily splits have been good for accumulating unwanted faces to experiment on :9
    lol no problem. I never did get around to doing this permanently, but I am sure I will. I'm just too cheap to buy a lot of good paint, and do it differently. ^^;; art supplies really add up.
    good luck!
    1 year ago
    1pt
    Milady-Alluca Obnoxiously Wordy
    Thanks so much for posting this, I read it awhile ago but I finally might be able to have time to experiment myself soon and I'm really excited since I have a couple custom ideas that really would look better even if just slightly tanner than standard GSC pale xD I've tried painting small skin parts on bodies with very limited success but just dunking a face in paint mix water sounds worth a shot for that smoothness! Luckily splits have been good for accumulating unwanted faces to experiment on :9
    1 year ago
    0pt
    Faux (1 year ago) #21556560snipThank you very much for explaining. ^_^
    1 year ago
    0pt
    Lehst (1 year ago) #21445806ok. I am a novice though, can you be more specific on what this gloss/satin coat is (is it a primer? what brand?) And what solvent it is impervious to? So far I have been using laquer thinner to remove unwanted paint (to be specific, I have used to remove Goodsmile's painted details.)
    And what brand of oil paint? I have Testors enamels here. I'm sorry to bother you with so many questions, but I can't take your suggetions without more details.


    Gloss/satin coat is basically a varnish which is a liquid you apply on your model to protect the underlying paint. It's dries clear and can be brushed or sprayed (from a can) depending on what you bought. Your local art or hobby store should have a spray can for sale. I would suggest getting the ones from your hobby store (spray can type) since they're specifically made from models. The gloss/satin refers to the finish which the varnish will give once it's dry.

    I advise that you get an acrylic satin finish varnish. Thinned oil paints shouldn't penetrate through acrylic varnish and I haven't experienced this from my previously finished model kits. Satin finish is advised so that the oil wash has something to grip on to but if you wish for a much easier clean up, then gloss varnish is your choice.

    I've only used Van Gogh's and Winsor & Newton's oil paints and they worked marvelous. These brands are artist oil paints and they might be a little expensive but a tube or 2 is worth it if you're doing customs. As for the thinner, you should get an odorless turpenoid, preferably made by Weber. I have no experience with other thinners and normal turpentine stinks and can penetrate through the acrylic varnish so avoid that.

    Apologies if I was being vague in my previous posts. Feel free to ask more if you're lost.
    1 year ago
    0pt
    Faux (1 year ago) #21444789Which is why I advised that you gloss/satin coat the faceplate first which protects the underlying paint/details. 2 coats should be enough to not damage the eyes.ok. I am a novice though, can you be more specific on what this gloss/satin coat is (is it a primer? what brand?) And what solvent it is impervious to? So far I have been using laquer thinner to remove unwanted paint (to be specific, I have used to remove Goodsmile's painted details.)

    And what brand of oil paint? I have Testors enamals here. I'm sorry to bother you with so many questions, but I can't take your suggetions without more details.
    1 year ago
    0pt
    Lehst (1 year ago) #21390538But then I would inevitably get oil paint on the eyes. Unless there is a brand or some science I am not understanding, the solvents to remove oil paint would be too strong and destroy the eyes. If I wanted to paint new eyes I would just start with an official tan nendo.

    Which is why I advised that you gloss/satin coat the faceplate first which protects the underlying paint/details. 2 coats should be enough to not damage the eyes.
    1 year ago
    0pt
    Faux (1 year ago) #21389429You should try using oil paints and do a a normal or gunk wash. I advise that you gloss/satin coat it first though. The long curing time for oil paint means that it has more time to even out itself and easier to clean up mistakes.
    Dot filtering should work as well.
    But then I would inevitably get oil paint on the eyes. Unless there is a brand or some science I am not understanding, the solvents to remove oil paint would be too strong and destroy the eyes. If I wanted to paint new eyes I would just start with an official tan nendo.
    1 year ago
    0pt
    You should try using oil paints and do a a normal or gunk wash. I advise that you gloss/satin coat it first though. The long curing time for oil paint means that it has more time to even out itself and easier to clean up mistakes.

    Dot filtering should work as well.
    1 year ago
    3pt
    I can't believe I read "giving your nendoroids a tan" and thought, oh, just put them out in the sun. *facepalm. Very creative idea, though!
    1 year ago
    0pt
    Nice!
    I would like to achieve the opposite and have a lighter skin on some of my figures :)
    1 year ago
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